While attending the “Festival of Learning” research conference in South Korea, I took some time out for exploring the rich experiences that Seoul has to offer.
1. Changing of the Guard
After one Lyft, a 12 hour flight, a two-hour airport bus, and a 45-minute subway ride, I found myself at Seoul’s Gyeongbokgung Palace on a bright sunny morning. Just in time for the changing of the palace guard. Drums were beaten. Trumpets blared. Conch shells honked. Crowds gathered. And the safety of the ancient grand palace was secured.
2. City Wall Hike
The next morning I awoke very early, due to jet lag, and went to the 1493 Dongdaemun eastern great gate, which today is in the center of the metropolis. From the gate, I climbed the Naksan Mountain Trail along the ancient city wall. Seoul is embedded among mountains along a wide river.
3. Cold Noodles for Breakfast
Of course, all that travel can make one hungry. Alas, Koreans do not seem to believe in breakfast. Or at least they don’t believe in breakfast restaurants. I had to search for someplace to eat. At last, while walking through a sleepy market, I found a crowd of locals slurping cold buckwheat noodles in a small cafe. They didn’t speak any English, but the language of noodles is universal. Check out the ice cubes in the noodle bowl – they are serious about cold noodles!
At night, Seoul comes alive with glorious street food.
4. A Stream Runs Through It
Seoul is a city of contrasts. Ancient, Modern. Overcrowded, Quiet. Outdoor sprawls, Indoor malls. My favorite contrast was Cheonggyecheon Stream, which runs right through the center of Seoul. It was clear, cool, and full of fish! It’s a favorite walking and jogging path for the locals. How surprising to suddenly drop out of a crowded, grimy outdoor market and into a clean, idyllic urban stroll!
5. Gangnam Style
If you’ve got it, you’ve got to flaunt it!
6. Vinyl Bar
Now this is my groove. A tiny late night bar with movie-theater-size speakers, playing soulful vinyl tracks from American R&B stars.
7. Korean BBQ
I met up with nephew Cliff, who is stationed in South Korea, for a Korean BBQ feast.
8. Buddhist Temples
Across the street of our modern conference hotel, the Bongeunsa Temple was a great place for a quiet 6 am contemplative walk. And each evening I went for a swim at the Westin, which had a hot tub overlooking the temple complex. This carving says it all:
“Is your day job giving you a headache? Try meditation!”
Of course, I love a music Bodhisattva. This major dude plays a mean Steely Dan!
9. 14th Century Tombs
Another nearby walk was to the burial place of a 14th century king and queen. They are buried in deep mounds. The dome tops a 50 ft deep earth mound that I’m standing on.
10. Bampo Rainbow Bridge
One night I hung out with the locals at the riverside. The Bampo bridge is lined with water spouts that shoot out over the river, and dance up and down to the music and lights. What music? Why not some Frank Sinatra! Could anything be more global that eating Korean fried chicken and sipping Sojo with all the young couples strolling about? While the speakers blared Sinatra exclaiming “If you can make it there, you can make it anywhere, it’s up to you, New York, New York!”
Conclusion
I loved Seoul. Go check it out!
